The main town of Capri is the center of most of the hotels, restaurants, and elegant shops -- and the milling throngs. The heart of the resort, Piazza Umberto I, is like a grand living room, lined with cafes. One of the most popular walks from the main square is down Via Vittorio Emanuele, past the deluxe Quisisana hotel, to the Giardini di Augusto, the choice spot on Capri for views and relaxation. From this park's perch, you can see the legendary I Faraglioni, the rocks once inhabited by the «blue lizard.» At the top of the park is a belvedere overlooking emerald waters and Marina Piccola. Nearby you can visit the Certosa, a Carthusian monastery erected in the 14th century to honor St. James. It's open Tuesday to Sunday 9am to 2pm and charges no admission. Back at Piazza Umberto I, head up Via Longano and then Via Tiberio, all the way to Monte Tiberio. Here you'll find the Villa Jovis, the splendid ruin of the estate from which Tiberius ruled the empire from A.D. 27 to A.D. 37. Actually, the Jovis was one of a dozen villas that the depraved emperor erected on the island. Apparently Tiberius had trouble sleeping, so he wandered from bed to bed, exploring his «nooks of lechery,» a young girl one hour, a young boy the next. From the ruins there's a view of both the Bay of Salerno and the Bay of Naples, as well as of the island.