Centuries ago St Jean-de-Luz was more important than Biarritz, a fishing port grown rich on whales, whose sailors were feared by the English - they referred to it as a viper's nest. It was here that Louis XIV chose to marry Marie-Thérèse in sumptuous style following the contract signed at nearby Hendaye - though the marriage was delayed by his passion for his mistress. Much of the very old town was destroyed by fire set by the Spanish in 1558, but by 1660 - the year of the marriage - much had been rebuilt, and the old town still today bears testament to the wealth at that time. But then fishing went into a decline, until the last century when tuna, anchovies and sardines became the main catches. Today St-Jean-de-Luz, with its long beach and old port, is one of the busiest coastal resorts in France, a lively and cosmopolitan town. Around the main square you can find some of the best sea-food restaurants on the Basque Coast, as well as other bars and terraces from which to see and enjoy the regular musical events in the main square - including a Basque Choir every Sunday morning.